Overload Clutch Worm Gear. Pinion Shaft Worm Gear Spacer. Quill Pinion Shaft Bushing. Overload Clutch Spring Plunger. Overload Clutch Locknut. Overload Clutch Washer. Overload Clutch Trip Lever. Handwheel Clutch Spring Screw. Feed Trip Plunger Bushing. Quill Washer Head Screw. Quill Oversize, grinding required. Call or email for additional info. Special Socket Set Screw. Collet Alignment Screw. Erickson QC Extension Key.
Erickson Spindle Nose Guard. Erickson Locknut Assembly 30 QC. Erickson Spindle Drive Key. Log in. If so, there is a setscrew on the backside, and the tightening technique is critical.
I suggest you download the manuals for free from the site Hardinge has made available. Do a search for a download link. Here's a link to a thread which may be beneficial.
Jim has it right. The nose piece, cap, has right hand threads. Originally Posted by jhruska. Thanks Jim, I got the nosepiece off. The dangers of buying a used machine, I guess. It had obviously been removed several times before and not marked, so the set screww had buggered up lots of threads.
In removing the actual collet screw, on mine it is up too high to be accessed with an allen wrench of any kind, unless it has been shortened. Is there a simpler way to get clearance to this thing? Figured I may as well do this also, as I am going thru this head.
Once the nosepiece is removed, there is nothing other than friction holding the spindle assemby inside the quill. You could remove it alltogether, but I have had trouble getting the spindle shaft to get back thru the felt, bearing shield at the top.
I can get it to roughly the correct gap. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance. A couple of things here: First, the. If it were bottomed out and there was no clearance, then your spindle might be "floating" in the quill. After changing spindle bearings or swapping spindles from another machine, it may be that the "flat" that has been machined on the nose-piece will no longer line up with the setscrew location.
No big deal, make a new flat in the new location. In your case, the flat should align properly since all you did was pull it down, and shove it back. My guess is that you are over-tightening the nose-piece. Take a look at where the flat is and see if you need to turn it a few degrees tighter or loosen it a few degrees. If you need to go tighter, you would probably lose your. My advice, snug it up, drill a few holes, do a little non critical milling, and re- tighten the nose piece.
See where you are then. Jim- Thanks for the reply. I guess since I've never pulled a Bridgeport spindle before, what I'm not fully understanding is the relationship between the nosecap, dirt shield and bearings. Does the nose cap simply press upon the dirt shield which in turn holds the entire spindle assembly in place? This seems to be my basic understanding, and why I thought the.
The spindle did not seem to drop when the nose piece was removed, and I used a ball end allen key to access the double set screw arrangement, so I did not manually pull the spindle down, though this is what would seem to be creating the larger gap uopn reinstallation of the nose piece.
Does the nose piece automatically set the correct pressure on the spindle assembly, or am I missing something? If the spindle has dropped, should it somehow be pushed back in prior to attaching the nose piece? If so, how is this accomplished, as it does not seem to want to move. I know that replacing the collet alignment screw is a simple operation, but I wonder if there are other spindle issues coming into play here.
This is a pretty old machine, and it may have additional problems I should be looking for with regards to the spindle. Again, any insight or advice would be most appreciated. Thanks again, ECJ. The nose piece applies the pressure to the spindle bearing outer race.
The spindle bearings are preloaded by inner and outer spacers, and the nut on top of spindle. Originally Posted by drylakemachine. I think the other 2 posters are telling you that you have it upside down. That the quill travels thru the sleeve until the screws with the special washers, contact the tabs of the sleeve and pull it down.
One of the parts diagrams seems to clearly show that the tabs of the sleeve are on the bottom. Did you take advantage of the free download of the manuals from Hardinge? Originally Posted by Jim Caudill. You changed the old one out.
Was it broke,as are there still pieces in the bore? Some thing external holding it back? Let me word this carefully.. Slot to rear of course The tab slots in Quill let the skirt slide down when Quill is raised Originally Posted by abarnsley. I am not good at getting images to show up larger than they do, but here's a doctored pic from the BP parts manual.
The washer-head screw is circled in red, the tab on the skirt is circled in yellow, up and down reference arrows have been added. I'm sorry the yellow doesn't show up real clear. It is just above the part referenced by I added a 2nd pic with the tab circled in green.
Jim, Thanks for the picture. I was out looking at my mill and discovered the slots in the side of the quill
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